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Tucked away in Tulum, some 45 mins or so from Playa Del Carmen, is El Camillos. Simply furnished (mostly with plastic chairs and tables) it’s more hole in the wall than upscale restaurant, but being packed at 3pm in the afternoon was a great sign I thought. The extensive, very reasonably priced menu features a great range of local seafood dishes all starring the freshest of ingredients.
The guacamole was absolutely to die for, while the fish tacos were some of the best that I have ever tasted. Wash it down with an icy cold beer and you have the makings of a fabulous feast.
If you are going to head to Tulum for a day trip to see the ruins then a visit to El Camillos is well worth it.
Apr 13, 2013 | Categories: eating | Tags: avocado, cancun, eat, eating, fish, food, guacamole, mexican, Mexico, playa del carmen, restaurant, seafood, tacos, Tulum | Leave A Comment »
The evolution of my life over the past 18 months since moving on from China has been both difficult and easy at times, but always interesting. It has played such a huge role in my life over the past decade and I realise now that I definitely chose to leave at the right time with lots of great memories. On the flip side I’m also a little surprised I haven’t actually made it back there, yet!
This year I travelled outside of Asia for pretty much the first time in 15 years (excluding Australia of course) and it was pretty awesome but I can safely say that Asia is a really special part of our amazing world.
My thirst for experiencing all the beauty and magic this wonderful world has to offer has by no means been quenched, which means there are lots more lazy travel times ahead.
Dec 17, 2012 | Categories: middle kingdom life | Tags: china, jillian mitchell, life, liu li, middle kingdom, photography, travel writing, village | Leave A Comment »
The once remote areas of Asia continue on a path of rapid modernisation, swept along to some extent by tourism and technology moving through the region. Along with this change, traditions and customs once abundantly practiced and visible are becoming less prominent in the lives of the younger generation, as globalisation instills a level of homogenisation in society.
One organisation intent on preserving traditional arts and customs is the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre in Luang Prabang, Laos. This non-profit, independent venture is dedicated to the preservation and promotion of the tiny landlocked nation’s diverse ethnic cultures.
I’m usually not that interested in visiting museums but I certainly enjoyed this one, and even took advantage of the opportunity to sample a few local dishes in the little cafe that sits on a balcony of the restored heritage building.
It’s easily accessible in town and is definitely worth a visit if you have the good fortune of being in lovely Luang Prabang.
Nov 24, 2012 | Categories: to do & see | Tags: asia, brocade, clothing, costume, culture, decorative, dress, embroidery, ethnic, indigenous, indochina, jillian mitchell, laos, luang prabang, luma, minority, phongsaly, textiles, traditional, traditional arts and ethnology centre | Leave A Comment »
A visit to the Great Barrier Reef is a must do if ever in Australia.
The best way to get in touch with this simply magnificent piece of nature is probably diving, but snorkelling certainly comes a very close second (IMHO).
Once you’ve experienced its beauty from below the water then take the opportunity for a helicopter joy flight for a truly spectacular view. It’s perhaps a little expensive but well worth it, and definitely a once in a lifetime experience. There will be options of how long etc and if you are visiting the reef off Airlie Beach you may be given the option of flying either out to, or back from, the reef. Personally, I’d prefer to spend 10 minutes flying across the main highlights rather than 40 minutes in transit maybe seeing beautiful aerial views but only getting a minute or two of reef.
The boat trip to and from the reef generally takes a couple hours each way, so it is a full day. All in all though, it is a great day out but your time on the reef pontoon is limited to maybe 3 – 4 hours max, so this means it’s busy, busy, busy. Getting into the viewing sub to take a look around, snorkelling as much of the available area as possible, filling up on the buffet lunch then teeing up time for the chopper flight. It was also very much a family affair the day I went – lots of people, including kids, added to the hectic feeling! So don’t go expecting a luxurious day with the reef to yourself, I think you’d need to take up the option of the overnight stay on the pontoon for a much more exclusive experience.
Nov 18, 2012 | Categories: featured, places | Tags: aerial, australia, coral, great barrier reef, helicopter, ocean, pacific, queensland, reef, sea, snorkelling, water | Leave A Comment »
It’s impossible to avoid the image of legendary revolutionist Che Guevara in Cuba.
After having lived in China for so many years and witnessing the worship and ever present presence of Mao Zi Dong, I almost expected to see an equivalent worship of Castro. Perhaps this expectation was just the result of my own sheer naivety in drawing parallels between the two, as I’m not even sure I scratched the surface of getting to really understand the psyche of this island nation during my brief visit.
Che’s face on the other hand is everywhere and he’s revered for his heroic endeavors throughout the nation. Visiting his mausoleum is a must do if you have any interest in this enigmatic leader. The site itself is steeped in symbolism and they have a good range of photos which give great insight to his power and story. It’s open from Tuesday to Sunday, the hours can vary a little though (sometimes it is closed when it’s raining); entrance is free but no bags or cameras etc are allowed, these can be checked in at a small booth to the left of the entrance.
Oct 17, 2012 | Categories: to do & see | Tags: che guevara, cuba, mausoleum, museum, revolution, santa clara | Leave A Comment »
When visiting Havana the thought of experiencing a taste of the iconic Buena Vista Social Club is difficult to resist. Nowadays though it is quite common to hear it referred to as a bit of a tourist gouging event, with the show mostly said to be “tribute style”.
Well that may be but I have to say I enjoyed the overall experience. The food wasn’t great and the mojitos were probably the worst I had in Cuba but the entertainment factor was high. They may not have been the original headliners that achieved fame in the movie but gee, these guys were in their 70s & 80s and really turned on a great show – each one had the charisma of a seasoned, confident performer and were clearly doing something they loved. They were there, back in the days of Cuba’s golden era of music when hedonism was running high in Havana.
It’s almost easy to be transported back to that time if you sit back, relax and enjoy the rhythmic beat. So, while I am always one to avoid the touristy, run of the mill sights this is something different. It’s not about seeing what the music scene of Cuba is like today nor is it trying to find the most authentic local experience that you can. For me it is about trying to get a tiny glimpse of a past era and the passion that inspired the original Buena Vista Social Club. These guys had it; so my suggestion would be to experience it if you can because in the not too distant future it will simply be out of our reach as each of these magnificent performers passes.
Sep 17, 2012 | Categories: to do & see | Tags: beuna vista social club, cuba, havana, music, performance, performers, show | Leave A Comment »
Tucked away in the centre of this island nation Santa Clara feels like the real deal. Horse and carts act almost like a local bus service clip clopping along the streets passing by all manner of awesome architecture most of which is closer to the crumbling kind than that of shiny restored glory.
The park that is the main square acts like a magnet, drawing in residents of all ages at all times of day. One of the best places to sit and and take in all the action is just outside the bar that’s housed in the old Theatre building, Teatro La Caridad. They make an awesome mojito and it’s the ideal spot to just sit and be.
The little kids riding along in a cart being pulled by a goat is one of the cutest things I’ve seen and in the evenings when the band winds up the dancing spills outside onto the pavement.
Santa Clara is much more than the fascinating Che Guevara Memorial which is located on its outskirts, it is a town which offers a chance to step off the tourist trail and get a glimpse of everyday life.
Sep 03, 2012 | Categories: places | Tags: central america, che guevara, cuba, dance, mausoleum, museum, santa clara, teatro la caridad, theatre, town | Leave A Comment »
From the skyscrapers of the CBD and iconic Hollywood sign to the mansions of Beverly Hills and sweeping Pacific coastline that stretches from Santa Monica up to Malibu, taking to the skies to see all the major sights of LA by helicopter is an awesome way to spend an afternoon.
It’s certainly not cheap but I found the whole process of attempting to get around by public transport all a bit tedious and time consuming.
There are a half dozen or so companies out there offering a variety of flight options – many of which are similar in route and price. Most of these operate from secondary airports so perhaps pick the one which is most convenient. I used a company that was based out at Van Nuys airport which was relatively easily access by the Flyaway shuttle bus to/from LAX – they also took the door off so I could get what are I hope some fantastic shots of this frenetically paced city.
Aug 30, 2012 | Categories: latest posts, places | Tags: america, beach, california, city, la, los angeles, north america, ocean, people, pier, santa monica, sea, united states, view, water | Leave A Comment »
The Cuban Sandwich, stuffed full with layers of ham, roast pork and cheese, makes for an awesome quick bite. I’ve never really been a salad sandwich type of girl so the meaty goodness, in what was once a common lunch for the masses in cigar factories and sugar mills, suited me right down to the ground.
Available almost anywhere, each one I tried varied widely in both quality and presentation, but they had all the core ingredients in common and were all tasty and satisfying.
Of course it may have just been that I still was marveling at a country that still crunches away on pork rinds as a snack but my best Cubana (pictured – I removed the lettuce!) was at a cafe on Plaza Vieja in Old Havana. What a way to suck up the atmosphere – sitting outside gazing over the stunningly restored architecture with the crowd grooving away to the rhythmic beats of the band whilst munching away on the flat-pressed goodness of a Cuban Sandwich.
Aug 17, 2012 | Categories: eating | Tags: cuba, cuban, cubana, food, havana, meal, old, plaza vieja, sandwich, traditional | Leave A Comment »
Cuba is the home of the Mojito and what better place to indulge in a couple of these refreshing, minty treats than a visit to what is reckoned to be their birthplace – La Bodeguita del Medio.
Said to have also been one of Hemingway’s favourite bars back in the day, this atmospheric haunt makes an excellent stopping off place in Old Havana.
It is a spot that is touted by many to be very touristy, and really does get very crowded but I would suggest not letting this put you off as the place simply oozes history and is somewhere I really enjoyed.
The band that was playing was awesome; the mojito excellent, with a very generous free pour of rum; and I just couldn’t resist making my own mark on the walls as so many have done before me.
Aug 16, 2012 | Categories: eating, latest posts | Tags: bar, central america, cocktail, cuba, drink, havana, la bodeguita del medio, mojito, old, rum | Leave A Comment »
The ruins themselves I didn’t find all that interesting, they just don’t compare to the magnificence of Tikal, but the location is incredibly picturesque so it is definitely worth the visit. Their proximity to Cancun & Playa Del Carmen see they get plenty of visitors….. OK, so it’s pretty much over-run with hordes of tourists in the middle of the day. To miss most of the tour groups arrive early, or at the very least walk in the opposite direction to the masses!
Lots of people swim in the water just below the ruins but give that a miss and head for the adjacent beach once you’re done at the ruins (approximately 10-15 minutes walk) When first arriving at the ruins you will have come to a T intersection, turning left is the main ticket office and entrance, while turning right will take you towards the beach – turn off the road when you get to the sign indicating public beach access.
The beach here is just stunning; sparkling white sand, crystal clear water and best of all, no crowds! At the northern end, there is a small beach-shack cafe with cold beer, tasty guacamole and fantastic views. And if you are wondering, the photo above is inside the ruins and not the beach I am talking about – it really does get better 
ADO buses have 5 or 6 departures each morning, dropping off at the ruins; tickets cost around 66 pesos. Entrance to the site is 57 pesos, there’s no charge for regular cameras however there is a charge for video cameras. ADO buses head back to PDC in the afternoons – if you didn’t buy a return ticket, you can buy one in the small makeshift bus station. Collectivos are also available and are cheaper at 40 pesos however I sat waiting in one for 10 mins or so before abandoning.
All in all, a nice simple day trip.
Jul 31, 2012 | Categories: latest posts, to do & see | Tags: beach, caribbean, central america, coast, el castillo, Mayan Ruins, Mexico, ocean, palm, rocks, ruins, sea, trees, Tulum, yucatan | Leave A Comment »
The Mayan ruins of Tikal are simply magnificent combining both archeological greatness and atmospheric wonder in a wild jungle setting. The air thick with humidity has a light yet pungent, damp soil and rotting foliage smell, as the sounds of this living organism wind their way up to a cacophony featuring dueling howler monkey clans screaming violently in the distance. Ever hopeful of spotting an elusive Jaguar or Puma, even the faintest rustle in the thick undergrowth grabs my attention and sees me peering into the darkness.
Getting back to the ruins; it is not until you get a view across the tree tops that you can appreciate the location of this once great Mayan empire – the lush canopy of foliage stretches across to the distant mountains, punctured only by 4 of these imposing ancient structures.
A knowledgeable guide helps to bring the region alive by pointing out more than just the ruins and the story behind them, as well as knowing the best track to get the best views.
I found it difficult to imagine its full splendor and scale, both in terms of size and looks – in my mind it looks simply fantastic enveloped in jungle! Not too mention fathoming just how amazing the Mayan’s were in their astronomical pursuits – a structure built more than 1,000 years ago that has stones aligned with the precise position of an equinox sunrise really is mind-blowing.
On a practical note, staying inside the national park for a night is well worth it. This gives you the opportunity to enter around 6am – helping you to miss not only the oppressive heat that comes with the middle of the day but also all the day-trippers.
If you want to see both remnants and feats of Mayan civilisation, then the UNESCO World Heritage site of Tikal really is the creme-de-la-creme!
Jul 25, 2012 | Categories: featured, latest posts, to do & see | Tags: central america, guatemala, jungle, mayan, rock, ruin, stone, temple, tikal, unesco, world heritage | Leave A Comment »
The weather was less than ideal from the moment I arrived on what can only be described as a Caribbean island paradise off the coast of Belize. The non stop rain put a bit of a damper on pretty much every outdoor activity, but despite this I headed out as planned for a few hours snorkelling in the reef just offshore.
I really wasn’t expecting too much as a couple of weeks earlier off Trinidad, Cuba the water visibility was quite poor after heavy rainfall, but today it ended up being a totally awesome experience. Snorkelling in the warm limpid, shallow seas we got up close and personal with a myriad of brightly coloured fish. My heart was racing as I jumped into “shark and ray alley”, being careful of course not to land on any of the creatures as they milled about beneath. With my heart racing I was totally freaked out and it felt as though I was thrashing about in the water. All that was running through my mind was “sharks have bad eyesight and if you thrash around they think you are a big fish”. After a few very nervous minutes though, I calmed down and began to enjoy the experience – the sharks (Grey Nurse) were smaller than I was so I got over them pretty quickly. Although I do have to admit there were quite a few more tetchy times in what felt to me like a manta ray’s version of chicken. Magnificent Rays spanning at least a metre in width would swim directly towards me till we were eyeball to eyeball, then at the last minute to avoid a head on collision they would veer mere centimetres below my body. I know, I said it before but seriously, just awesome – am also regretting not hiring an underwater camera!
Caye Caulker is small (just a couple of hundred metres wide in places) with a very chilled atmosphere. It’s also a hive of diving and snorkelling tours off the nearby barrier reef, which is second only in size to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Coconut palms are scattered along the shoreline, colourful buildings line the few white sandy streets, where golf cart-like vehicles occasionally whiz by (the only motorised form of transport on the island). The seafood is absolutely sensational and wonderfully fresh, with the commencement of the lobster season just a few days earlier a welcome boon for feasting on succulent lobster.
It is definitely not your typical resort island and there are no beaches as such, with the shore being home to a series of both public and private docks, however it does make a fantastic escape for a few days.
Jul 10, 2012 | Categories: latest posts, to do & see | Tags: beach, belize, caribbean, caye caulker, central america, dive, island, marine, ocean, sea, snorkel, swim, water | Leave A Comment »
Cave of the Crystal Sepulchre or the ATM (Actun Tunichil Muknal) cave is a must do if you are floating around Belize, and in particular San Igancio.
Getting there is a bit of an arduous journey over a bumpy road for a bit more than hour, and once at the carpark you need to hike through the jungle for around 40 mins, which I think helps to build the whole experience – as you really are on a special journey into a remote Mayan sacrificial and relic resting place. The 3 river crossings on the hike give some much needed practice at getting your footing in slippery, watery surrounds.
By the time you reach the small shelter just outside the cave entrance the heat will have really set in and humidity will be palpable. It’s time to shed the last of your belongings and perhaps have a quick bite to eat before donning helmets, testing out your lights then slowly clambering across the first of many rocks and sinking into the cool water before swimming a few metres into the darkness – look back to a stunning vista of lush green vegetation and limpid spring water as you descend into what was once believed to be the Mayan netherworld.
Within moments you are enveloped by the dark coolness of the cave – let the adventure begin! The journey is around one and a half kilometres, sometimes with the water around your ankles and sometimes it is up around your neck. There is quite a bit of manoeuvrings required and a few tight squeezes where you need to place your head in just the right position to get through narrow openings in the rocks. When you are not squeezing you are climbing, crawling or wading – there really isn’t that much normal walking.
Arriving at the natural rock platform which holds the precious artifacts you face the biggest challenge so far – a climb up a two metre boulder and onto the ledge above you. Watching another group come down I feel slightly at ease as some make it look not that difficult. In the end going up and down was not a problem – it is all mind over matter and if you have reasonable fitness and flexibility you should have absolutely no issues.
The story of the cave as a space where ritual offerings were carried out some 1400 years ago fascinated me on the practical side as I could not quite work out how they carried some of the pots into the cave in the first place as some of them were pretty big. However I was assured that there is more than one entrance and the offerings were of such significance that it was all worth the effort. Many of the skeletal remains inside remain untouched and the whole site seems to be fairly well treated and respected by the local guides.
Unfortunately, some visitors have not been as respectful – cameras were banned a couple of months ago as someone ignored the “no enter” area to get a closer shot of a skull, the idiot dropped their camera and left a rather large hole in this priceless relic….. aaaargggghhhh unbelievable!!!!
There is a surprising amount of life within the cave with some tiny plants battling their way into existence from seeds in fruit bat poo to live a short but sweet life on rocks in the darkness. Sizable crabs can also sometimes be seen – I happened upon one by chance sitting on the wall and was surprised at its size. Up in the dry chamber unusual looking cave dwelling insects with antennae two or three times the length of their body dart around in the darkness. The stalagmite and stalagmite formations are simply stunning, with the cathedral area having almost a natural chandelier.
Overall definitely worthwhile and as I mentioned not that difficult if you have reasonable fitness and flexibility. It’s expensive at US$85 but I am finding most of the region to be quite expensive. Lunch is included, takes a whole day and is impossible to do without a guide.
Unfortunately no pictures coming for this story as camera’s are no longer allowed inside the cave but to see a selection of images in National Geographic click here.
Jun 30, 2012 | Categories: latest posts, to do & see | Tags: Actun Tunichil Muknal, ancient, atm, belize, burial, cave, cayo, central america, Crystal Sepulchre, maya, mayan, relic, ritual, sacrifice, san ignacio | Leave A Comment »
The old city of Havana literally took my breath away with its beauty! Streets and streets of grand architecture – some restored, some faded and crumbling – but all absolutely gorgeous and alive. Small shady public gardens peppered with monuments are tucked away amongst the spectacular array of buildings, giving residents (and visitors) a place to escape from the searing sun.
My one big tip – expect the unexpected. Perhaps a book reading in the main square has garnered a crowd surrounded by stalls of 2nd hand books, colourful street performers might appear out of no-where and musicians stroll the streets bursting into life as they chase down and serenade unsuspecting tourists – all adding to the vibrant atmosphere.
Step back into the past and enjoy one of the city’s best Mojitos at Hemingway’s old watering hole. I am not sure what made the vibe so amazing in this bar – whether I was on a high from the architecture or it was the free-pouring of rum in my drink or the music being played by the band or seeing the names of so many travellers before me that literally covered the walls - maybe it was a combination of everything, but at 4pm in the afternoon there would be few places in the world that could replicate this magic.
Oh and it just gets better! Taking a cruise around town in a classic convertible just on sunset, then spending the evening soaking up the dulcet sounds of the legendary Buena Vista Social Club. Most of these guys are seriously getting on, and must be more than 80 years old, but they have still got the rhythm happening as they shuffle about charming the audience.
The abundance of culture though, extends to more than just music and times gone by. Contemporary art installations are scattered throughout the city providing a layer of modern sophistication. From a building with giant ants crawling all over its facade and a huge mirror facing the Florida Straits, to the several thousand dangling silver spoons creating a tingling ocean of sound in the breeze – Havana is a sensory surprise packet of delight for the curious.
Jun 25, 2012 | Categories: latest posts, places | Tags: architecture, buildings, caribbean, cathedral, central america, church, classic, colonial, cuba, havana | Leave A Comment »
Arriving in Guatemala City after spending some time in Cuba was like a huge slap in the face by commercialism.
An endless stream of billboards, fast food restaurants and American retail chain stores seemed to line the roadside giving a real modern and racy feel. In Cuba the only billboards that could be seen were usually of the revolutionary kind, with neon lights and most forms of flashy marketing or signage non existent.
I love the above image which I stumbled across on the wall of the University of Havana’s Faculty of Arts & Literature building. It’s huge at 8 metres high and was painted as a part of Havana Bienniale. Representing the “99% against the 1%”, a key slogan for the Occupy movement, the mural is the work of a collective of a dozen or so local designers and artists. Difficult to see the detail in the small sized photo but the writing on the image includes the names of large multinational companies.
I was a little amazed at the impact but perhaps it just goes to show how quickly we adapt to our surroundings. A totally refreshing experience to be reminded of the influence and constant barrage of commercialism we face on a day to day basis.
Jun 22, 2012 | Categories: latest posts, on the road | Tags: 99 percent against 1 percent, billboards, caribbean, commercialism, cuba, fast food, guatemala, havana biennale, occupy, retail, revolution, shops, stores | Leave A Comment »
Wow, how fantastic is Cuba!
It has always been on the list of places I would love to visit but apart from the promise of gorgeous architecture and cool looking old cars I was not really sure what to expect, and have been so busy over the past couple of months I didn’t do a scrap of research.
The architecture was simply spectacular and there were loads of fantastic old cars, both restored and un-restored, hooning around but Cuba is much, much more. The people are wonderful and welcoming and it has this feeling….. a feeling that is a little like the one I first got in China so many years ago. Obviously poverty is still an issue, as is the trade embargo which limits the availability of goods in this proud little island nation, but people for the most part seem reasonably happy. There seems to be a laid-back contentment for the small things in life and an ability to find joy in the simplest of times.
Setting themselves apart from most other developing countries and even developed nations, Cuba’s residents seem very well cared for in terms of education and healthcare. Literacy levels are high and families are allocated a health care practitioner to take care of their needs.
There were also suggestions that the food was not good and you might go hungry as some things were not available – both sheer fallacy (in fact I think I have eaten a little too well!!!)
The roads are wide with little traffic, the streets feel pretty safe and there is a whole new industry of private restaurants and home stays (casas particulares) rising up, giving a lucky few the opportunity to earn a bit extra.
Remnants and reminders of the revolution pop up everywhere – the face of enigmatic legend, Che Guevera is by far the most common. What I found even more amazing though was that this beloved hero quite possibly has offspring living in Cuba who are relatively unknown and able to live a normal life out of the spotlight.
Although it was a short visit of just 10 days, Cuba has absolutely wowed me – I will be back!
Jun 15, 2012 | Categories: featured, latest posts, places | Tags: caribbean, central america, che guevara, cuba, life, people, travel, tropical | Leave A Comment »
So frequently it happens that visiting a place which you had enjoyed many years before, you are disappointed when returning to find the masses have discovered your once much less trodden haven, sapping its former wonderful atmosphere and cultural authenticity. Before returning to Luang Prabang recently I feared the worst after having read many comments online about how much things have changed. It’s about 10 years or so since my last visit, and I must say, that sure things are different but on the whole I still had an amazing time. The old part of town remains a sleepy slice of cultural heritage with pretty monasteries sprinkled amongst a fabulous mix of restored French colonial and traditional Lao architecture.
One of the most profound visible differences I found were the growing number of upscale boutique resorts occupying beautifully renovated old buildings, with classic luxury vehicles standing ready to ferry around well-heeled guests.
I’ve never been one to visit every tourist attraction out there, preferring to sit and enjoy some local food whilst soaking up the ambiance of a place – Luang Prabang is simply perfect for this. I wandered aimlessly through the temples just enjoying their spectacular beauty enveloped by the light scent of frangipani that lingered.
Kids hunt for the healthiest of snacks in the quiet streets by using large bamboo poles to jab away at fruit hanging high in the treetops as monks drift by, their dazzling saffron robes adding vibrancy to the lush green surrounds. Of course, these days there are many new activities for visitors to get involved in, but the majority of these seem to be quite culturally complimentary with a definite ecological slant – the cooking school and weaving centre are two that immediately spring to mind.
While relaxing with a cool drink on the banks of the mighty Mekong or Nam Khan river, as the sun dips lazily towards the horizon, is the perfect way to end the day.
Possibly one of the most influential factors on how much you enjoy your stay is your choice of accommodation – I enjoyed being in a more local part of town, which was still just a short bike ride from all the action. Although Luang Prabang has definitely grown, and is a little more polished than it was 10 years ago, it remains one of the most charming outposts in Asia.
May 27, 2012 | Categories: latest posts, places | Tags: architecture, buddhism, laos, luang prabang, monk, road, street, temple, traditional, wat | Leave A Comment »
Lao food has an incredibly fresh taste largely influenced by the wonderful use of herbs that transform simple ingredients into delicious meals.
The beef Laap dish served in most restaurants these days is made a little more palatable for westerners with the meat now being cooked rather than its traditional raw version. Herbs gave the dish great flavour, while the crunch of bean sprouts made for added texture.
A traditional clear soup of meat, herbs and vegetables, Orlam makes for a nice light meal, giving you the impression that eating it really is good for you.
To broaden your food experience beyond local Luang Prabang fare head for Le Patio Cafe at the Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre, which serves a range of minority dishes from various nearby provinces. The food is very good, with the menu offering the ability to taste a nice mix rather than being stuck with just one dish. Set in a lovely old building, insight is also given into the people and culture where the dish hails from. Oh and if that’s not enough, there’s also a delicious selection of French pastries to finish with.
Tamarind restaurant has a great reputation for its food, and based on my experience it’s very well deserved. Using ultra fresh ingredients it serves up a fusion of traditional local dishes with a few modern touches.
The Mok Pa (steamed fish with herbs) was simply divine – tender, fleshy fillet of fish with dill and basil, wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed to perfection. The melt in your mouth fish morsels were accompanied by plump, glossy grains of sticky rice, which also proved excellent for soaking up the juice.
So cool and refreshing in the blistering heat, the watermelon and chilli granita was a tantalising icy mix of sweet and spice – a drink I swore I’d be looking to replicate at home.
Meals were definitely a highlight for me in Luang Prabang, with the taste and style both in complete harmony with the heat and humidity of the environment.
May 27, 2012 | Categories: eating | Tags: beef, cuisine, culture, dish, food, laos, luang prabang, rice, traditional | Leave A Comment »
Being located out in the Taklamakan Desert below sea level it is hard to imagine anything growing in the barren, rocky landscape however Turfan is known for its grapes, melons and the nearby flaming mountains, as well as having the notoriety of being the hottest place in China.
Built some 2,000 years ago the ancient Karez irrigation system not only brings miraculous life to the dusty plains making Turfan a productive fertile pocket of land but it also cemented the town as a key stopping point on the Silk Road for caravans and traders in years gone by.
The totally awesome ruins of Jiaohe are a fantastic place to wander and conjure up visions of what times past might have been like in its heyday.
Home to the stunning Emin Minaret, a building that well and truly caught my eye for its simple yet intricate beauty, this is one of the first stops when travelling west that you will really get a taste of Uyghur culture.
But the morning I spent exploring the local animal market was an unexpected highlight of my time in this desert oasis. Wandering among the action was a great introduction to local life and about as far away from the tourist trail as you get.
We did get lots of inquiring looks of bewilderment, with many not quite actually able to work out what could possibly be interesting about watching herders and towns-people buying and selling sheep, goats and cows.
Everyone was incredibly friendly and curious, though a little camera shy at the beginning. The Uyghur food is absolutely delicious, particularly if you are a meat lover and the atmosphere in the old parts of town is magic as donkeys “clip clop” their way along the streets.
Turfan has lots to offer and is an excellent place to spend a few days getting caught up in the fabulous legends of the Silk Road.
To see a gallery of images from the Turfan Animal Market, click here.
Apr 28, 2012 | Categories: places, remembering... | Tags: china xinjiang, emin, market, minaret, silk road, tourism, turfan, turpan | Leave A Comment »
A damp coolness lingers in the air as a sea of vibrant saffron seemingly floats along a deserted narrow road in the faint early morning light. Framed by lush greenery and traditional wooden architecture a smattering of locals patiently sit with their bamboo baskets filled with sticky rice as they wait to give alms. Witnessing this serene, special event was a highlight of my stay, however not every scene plays out with such reverence.
I couldn’t even bring myself to raise my camera at the alms giving that took place just outside my hotel in Luang Prabang, there were no other onlookers and I imagine this same event would have been repeated thousands of times in exactly the same manner.
Unfortunately, this was not the case in the centre of the Luang Prabang where I can only describe the Tak Bat here as a circus which features these ridiculous camera-toting tourists jumping in, out and around the monks who were silently attempting to carry out this Buddhist tradition. Despite the rules of conduct being well publicised around town, the behaviour of many left me incredibly conflicted about taking my own photos and the impact of tourism on this age-old ritual.
I was a little horrified to find it has almost become a “tourism experience” with visitors being given the opportunity to take part in the tradition and give alms. The desire to give can only be commended but I question taking part in sacred religious rituals where there is no real association – in some ways I think it makes a mockery of the situation. Poor quality food is a further complication where some monks have become sick from rice given by some unsuspecting tourists, as this is purely a money making opportunity for some.
I had to move away from the main street and to my relief I found a much quieter place where I could sit at a distance and take photos – I am thankful for my zoom lens.
To see a collection of images from Tak Bat in Luang Prabang, click here.
Apr 25, 2012 | Categories: featured, latest posts, to do & see | Tags: alms, buddhism, indochina, laos, luang prabang, monks, Morning Alms Giving, procession, religion, ritual, Tak Bat | Leave A Comment »
Although Chengde was always at the end of a long tour its gorgeous temples and wonderful Imperial Resort were a great reward for making the 3-4 hour journey north from Beijing.
Back in the Qing dynasty Chengde was developed as a summer getaway for the emperors, with a key part of the landscape the temples in the Tibetan, Han and Mongolian styles that sit on a ridge on the outskirts of town.
The Putao Zongchengzhi was built as a mini Potala Palace and is not only the biggest but also the most impressive. While the building may have been styled to mimic a legendary landmark I find the two to be extremely different in both look and feel – although you can certainly see the architectural similarities.
The Puning temple sits adjacent to Putao Zongchengzhi and contains a massive wooden statue of Guanyin.
Chengde is much more than temples though, the Imperial Summer Resort is a great place to explore in the early hours of the morning. The dawn lazily arrives revealing a spectacular landscape of pagodas, lakes and palace buildings, while dainty bridges emerge as ribbons of fog slowly lift. Parks in China are a fantastic place to be in the mornings and give you a real glimpse into the everyday lives of the locals.
To see more images of the gorgeous Chenge temples, click here.
Jan 25, 2012 | Categories: places, remembering... | Tags: architecture, buddhism, chengde, china, dynasty, emporer, hebei, imperial resort, kangxi, puning, putuo zengcheng, qing, royal, summer palace, temple | Leave A Comment »
With a name that translates to literally mean “five plateau mountain” Wutaishan is one of the 4 sacred Buddhist peaks in China. Home to more than 50 temples and monasteries, Wutaishan was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009.
With some of the temples dating back to the Yuan dynasty and a few of the wooden buildings said to have been built in the Tang dynasty, it makes a great place to visit for a few days.
The layout of Wutaishan makes it a little different to China’s other sacred mountains, many of which require a trek up a mountain-side to get to the temples. A variety of accommodation is available in the town centre which also houses some of the main temples, making a visit to the key attractions much more accessible without transport.
It was also the first place I was introduced to the creative skills of fashioning wheat gluten, soy protein and other vegetarian base products into “mock-meat” – reproduced to look amazingly like its non-vegetarian model, with attempts also made to mimic the texture too. A very surreal experience to be eating king prawns that look just like the real thing but are not. This makes the food here different but it also very good, and sheer delight for vegetarians.
The decorative elements at some of the temples here were one of the standouts for me – fabulous brasswork and exterior paintings/murals both symbolic and intricate. The surrounding countryside and mountains make a beautiful backdrop, while sunset from the east peak is quite stunning.
To see more Wutaishan images click here to be taken to my photography website – imagesbyjillian.com
Dec 22, 2011 | Categories: latest posts, places, remembering... | Tags: buddhism, buddhist, china, holy, monastery, mountain, relic, sacred, temple, wutai, Wutaishan | Leave A Comment »
How awesome was this Tibetan nomad festival in Langmusi, China on International Children’s Day, 2002.
I was incredibly fortunate to experience this event with one of my groups and it was definitely worth arriving after 2am in the morning for. We had broken down on the grasslands in the middle of Sichuan the previous day and had an 8 hour or so wait while the parts for the mini-vans were driven in. I was tour leading at the time and my group handled the whole experience fantastically, especially since it was at my urging that we continued on into the night across the grassland as I had heard that the festival may be a possibility. The road was terrible and it was a long slow trip but without a doubt it was all worth it in the end!
The festival was a full day of events. First, we rushed off out into the grassland to see the horse races. I must say I was a little in awe of the youngster who won. Of course, they were riding bareback and most of the riders were under 10 years of age – absolutely put my horse riding skills to shame. Then the crowd jumped into the backs of a couple of big blue trucks and onto horses or motorbikes and took off to the next venue.
Sitting up by the road was a great perch to watch the yak-riding race taking place 50 metres or so down in the valley. It also seemed like a safe distance as I thought that yaks were fairly scatterbrained, strange animals – so to see them being ridden was going to be interesting. Once the riders were on board, the small crowd around the animals quickly fled as these beasts exploded off in all directions. They really are very skittish and difficult to control, and were pretty much running all over the place while throwing their riders off. Eventually one guy got a bit of a straight run happening in the right direction and crossed the finish line.
After lunch, down by the stream the rock throwing, singing and dancing was happening, where different groups were almost having a dance off! So much colour and enjoyment both from the performers and the crowd, it truly was an amazing experience.
This was the first time the festival had been held and I actually could not tell you if it has been held since then – in all a very random event that I had heard about through a contact, and even then it was always a maybe. For me this is what made it so special!
To see more images from the Tibetan Nomad Festival in Langmusi, click here to go to my photography website – Imagesbyjillian.com
Dec 04, 2011 | Categories: featured, remembering..., to do & see | Tags: celebration, china, clothing, ethnic, festival, gansu, jillian mitchell, langmusi, minority, monastery, monks, nomad, people, photographer, photography, sichuan, tibet, tibetan, traditional, travel, writing | Leave A Comment »
If you are a regular visitor you might have noticed I have introduced a new category of blog post called “remembering…”.
I have spent the past few days delving back into my huge archive of film images, many of which have been locked away for the past 9 or 10 years. Of course this has set off a chain reaction of great memories from places I visited either before or during my tour leading days.
So, while these visits may have happened many years ago I think the nature of the place is likely to have remained. I just could not help myself and decided to do a bit of a walk down memory lane by writing about some of these amazing places and experiences.
Each blog post is accompanied by just one image, the rest of the images I am posting over at my photography site – www.imagesbyjillian.com
I hope you enjoy them as much as I do!
Dec 04, 2011 | Categories: other stuff | Tags: jillian mitchell, photographer, photography, travel writer, writer | Leave A Comment »
