the lazy travel writer

Views around Yangshuo

Being Popular in the World’s Most Populous Nation Brings its Challenges.

An article in Wanderlust magazine discusses the “Threatened Wonders 2010”, which sees Yangshuo as number 2 on the list.   Needless to say I found some of the comments quite interesting and thought I might toss my opinion out there.

Most of China’s naturally stunning and picturesque scenic spots have been absorbing the impact of an ever increasing and burgeoning domestic tourism boom for years now.     Yangshuo is no exception however part of its popularity has risen from Western tourists and backpackers interest in the place.   Not so many years ago for Chinese tourists “coming to see the foreigners in West Street” was a part of the tour itinerary.  Our interest also allowed people to realize that Yangshuo’s scenery really is perhaps more beautiful than that of Guilin.

Recognising that culturally most Chinese tourists are worlds away from Western tourists in what they want, expect and enjoy, Yangshuo must in some crazy manner try to accommodate these very different demands and expectations.  

Yangshuo like the rest of China is developing, some places are moving faster than others and it’s incomparable to what we have seen in other countries.  Tourism here happens in volumes that are difficult to imagine and sometimes it is impossible and impractical for a destination to stay stuck in a time warp when it is part of a more dynamic whole.  

Improvements in infrastructure have occurred at break-neck speed over the past few years, meaning for most of those who live here the quality of life has risen substantially.  

To suggest “The Li River that mumbles through town is polluted and every street is lined with rowdy guesthouses.” is in my opinion an interesting statement.   Just a few weeks ago I was surprised at how clear the water in the Li River actually was.   Obviously the river goes through the rigours of the seasons so its “look” can change quite dramatically with the water level and flow.   As for the rowdy guesthouses, well there are nowhere near enough guesthouses to line every street let alone rowdy ones.    Nor would I have imagined there are too many people actually making money from selling souvenirs in Yangshuo.

Yangshuo does retain charm but it might not be the kind of charm you had built in your imagination, and it is still very possible to find peace and quiet in town – you just need to pick your time and place.   The superb scenery and countryside is definitely the biggest draw-card and always has been.   Ongoing tourism development is generally limited at this stage to a relatively small tract of land in the area, meaning it is actually very easy to get out and not see another tourist all day.

Interestingly enough there wasn’t a solution that said “don’t visit Yangshuo”, just one that recommended getting out into the countryside which is already a given for any visitor.   If having too many tourists is the underlying factor for inclusion on the list then I would suggest that being popular in the world’s most populous nation brings its challenges.  

Yangshuo wont ever be that ideal, charming little village it perhaps once was and truth be told it hasn’t actually been like that for quite a few years now.  It is however, a truly wonderful place to spend some time and is coping reasonably well with the demands placed on it.    It’s certainly not perfect but is any place?